PREPARING YOUR SIDING FOR STAINING
The most important step to ensure beautiful and long-lasting protection is proper surface preparation. About 95% of finish failures are due to improper preparation and/or application. The better prepared the surface is before you begin, the more satisfying your end result will be. Stains and finishes require a clean, sound surface free of dirt, dust, grease, mold, and mildew, loose wood fibers, and mill glaze to ensure adequate penetration of finish.
Uncoated Siding or New Wood
- The siding must be thoroughly dry, with moisture content below 15% before finishing.
- Remove the mill glaze to ensure proper penetration and adhesion of the coating. Mill glaze can be removed by using BRIGHTEN Brightener & Neutralizer 317 as directed on the label. All sanding dust must be removed.
- To ensure that the wood is ready to accept a finish, a simple "water bead test" should be done. Sprinkle a few drops of water on various areas of the surface. If it beads up, allow time for further weathering, sand wood, or clean using BRIGHTEN Brightener & Neutralizer 317. If water quickly soaks in, the wood is ready to accept a finish.
Uncoated Weathered Wood Siding
- The surface must be free from dirt, mold and mildew, grease, and loose wood fibers.
- Unstained weathered surfaces must be aggressively cleaned with a stiff bristle brush to remove dead wood fibers.
- Remove mold and mildew with RESTORE for Gray & Weathered Wood 316 as directed on the label (be sure to allow the surface to dry thoroughly - approximately 48 hours before recoating).
- If desired, cedar or redwood that may have darkened due to restoring may be brightened by using BRIGHTENER Brightener & Neutralizer 317.
- Read carefully and follow the directions on the selected Benjamin Moore product label. The "Important Finishing Tips" outlined in the deck staining brochure which is available in our store.
If possible, complete you siding finish within one week of surface preparation.
Previously Coated Siding
- Old surfaces to be coated must be cleaned and free of dirt, mold and mildew, grease, and water stains.
- Rough and textured surfaces should be cleaned with RESTORE for Gray & Weathered Wood 316 and a stiff bristle brush to remove all dead or loose fibers.
- If the previous coating is in good condition (no flaking or peeling evident), use CLEAN Multi-Purpose Cleaner 318, as directed on the label, to remove dirt and mildew.
- If previous coating is in poor condition, or contains a water sealer, remove the old finish with REMOVE Finish Remover 315 as directed on the label.
- If the previous coating is paint, recoating with a stain is not an recommended, Complete removal by sanding or with a paint stripper is recommend.
- The cleaned surface must be thoroughly dry to permit maximum absorption. Be sure the moisture content is below 15% before finishing.
- To ensure that he wood is ready to accept a finish, a simple "water bead test" should be done. Sprinkle a few drops of water on various areas of the surface. If it beads up, allow time for further weathering, sand the wood, or use BRIGHTEN Brightener & Neutralizer 317. If water quickly soaks in, the wood is ready to accept a finish.
- If the siding on your home was previously finished with a solid color stain, there are a number of recoating options. A coat of primer followed by an acrylic top coat is recommended. A coat of primer is recommended if you wish to change the stain color from dark to a lighter color or if there is tannin staining from redwood or cedar. Acrylic solid color finishes are noted for their superior color retention. If the surface was coated with a transparent or semi-transparent finish, you can continue with the same type or use a solid color. Do not use transparent or semi-transparent products over solid color stains unless the previous finish is completely removed.
- If general peeling is apparent, complete stripping of the finish is required. Use REMOVE Finish Remover 315, follow label instructions, and refinish with the appropriate Benjamin Moore Siding Finish.
- Excessive film thickness, caused by applying the finish too heavily or by multiple layers of finish, may lead to premature coating failure. Use the adhesion testing procedure to determine if the coating should be removed before refinishing.
- Read carefully and follow the directions on the selected Benjamin Moore siding product label for completion of your project.
If possible, complete your finishing within one week of surface preparation.
APPLYING THE STAIN
Stain from the top of the project down to avoid drips and spatters from spoiling previously stained areas.
Apply stain in the direction of the grain of wood. Work vertically when staining shingles and side to side when staining clapboard siding.
Minimize lapping by coating three to five boards across the length of the house until you reach a natural break point, such as a door or window.
Step 1: Stain the window sash and recessed parts of the window frame first, stain the frame and window sill last.
Step 2: Then work on the various sections of your project in the following order:
1) Eaves 2) Fascia 3) Body 4) trim 5) Doors 6)Garage
EXTERIOR SIDING STAINING TIPS
- Wood siding that comes "pre-primed" should be finished within a month of installation or it will have to be primed again. For best results, it is advisable to coat even pre-primed surfaces with an Alkyd primer such as Fresh Start 094 or 100.
- Stain doesn't stay mixed the same way paint does. You'll need to stir stain frequently during application.
- Rough surfaces hold more color the smooth surfaces.
- To ensure proper stain penetration and even drying results, avoid applying stain in direct sunlight.
- To be sure you will be pleased with the final color results, select an inconspicuous place on the actual wood you will be staining and spot-test the stain.
- When replacing fence posts, or putting up a new fence, coat the bottom of the posts in a Fresh Start Alkyd primer. This will give the posts added protection from the kind of ground moisture they are subjected to and will help extend the life of the posts.