PREPARING YOUR DECK FOR STAINING Remove as many items as you can (planters, hoses, outdoor furniture, light fixtures) and cover other items (steps, plants, sidewalks, paths) with drop cloths.
Examine the deck for surface wear, cracked boards, and popped nails. Make necessary repairs before you stain your deck.
New or Uncoated Wood Decks - The deck must be thoroughly dry, with moisture content below 15% before finishing.
- Remove the mill glaze (glossy surface resulting from the planing process of new milled lumber) to ensure proper penetration and adhesion of coating. Mill glaze can be removed by using Benjamin Moore's CLEAN Multi-Purpose Cleaner 318 as directed on the label (be sure to allow the surface to dry thoroughly after rinsing - approximately 48 hours - before coating).
OR
- Remove mill glaze by thoroughly sanding in the direction of the wood grain. Be sure to cover all areas of the deck. All sanding dust must be removed.
- To ensure that the wood is ready to accept a finish, a simple "water bead test" should be done. Sprinkle a few drops of water on various areas of the deck surface. If it beads up, allow time for further weathering, sand the wood, or clean using Benjamin Moore's Clean Multi-Purpose Cleaner 318.
Weathered or Uncoated Wood Decks
- The surface must be free from dirt, mold, mildew, grease, and loose wood fibers.
- Unstained weathered surfaces must be aggressively cleaned with RESTORE for Gray and Weathered Wood 316 and a stiff bristle brush to remove dead wood fibers.
- If desired, any cedar or redwood that may have darkened due to restoring may be brightened by following with BRIGHTEN Brightener & Neutralizer 317.
- Read carefully and fallow the directions on the product label for completion of your project. The "Important Deck Finishing Tips" outlines brochure should be followed.
If possible, complete your deck finishing within one week of surface preparation.
Previously Coated Wood Decks
- Old surfaces to be coated must be cleaned and free of dirt, mold, mildew, grease, and water stains.
- Rough and textured surfaces should be cleaned with RESTORE for Gray and Weathered Wood 316 and a stiff bristle brush to remove all dead wood fibers.
- If the previous coating is in poor condition, or contains a water sealer, remove the old finish with REMOVE Finish Remover 315, as directed on the label.
- If the previous coating is in good condition (no flaking or peeling is evident), use CLEAN Multi-Purpose Cleaner 318 as directed on the label to remove dirt and mildew.
- If the previous coating is paint, recoating with a stain is not recommended. Complete removal by sanding or with a paint stripper is recommended.
- The clean deck must be thoroughly dry to permit maximum absorption. Be sure the moisture content is below 15% before finish.
- To ensure that the wood is ready to accept a finish, a simple "water bead test" should be done. Sprinkle a few drops of water on various areas of the deck surface. If it beads up, allow time for further weathering, sand the wood, or use BRIGHTEN Brightener and Neutralizer 317. If water quickly soaks in, the wood is ready to accept a finish.
- If general peeling is apparent, complete stripping of the deck is required. Use REMOVE Finsih Remover 315, follow label instructions, and refinish with the appropriate Benjamin Moore finish.
- Excessive film thickness, caused by applying the finish to heavily or by multiple layers of finish, may lead to premature coating failure. Use the adhesion test procedure to determine of the coating should be removed before refinishing the deck.
- Read carefully and follow the directions on the selected Benjamin Moore product label for completion of your project.
If possible, complete your finishing within one week of surface preperation.
APPLYING THE STAIN
Decks are often subjected to extreme environmental conditions (direct sun, cool damp shade, etc.) as well as heavy foot traffic. Proper care of your deck will help ensure the longevity of the finish.
- After properly preparing the wood, select an inconspicuous place on the actual wood you will be staining and test the stain to be sure you will be pleased with the final color results.
- Stain the vertical sections of the deck such as rails and posts first, so that drips will not land on previously finished areas.
- Once the vertical surfaces are complete, proceed to the deck surface. For deck boards, work two-three boards at a time to avoid lad marks. Don't stop in the middle of a board, or you will risk developing lap marks. Make sure to wipe up any excess stain.
DECK STAINING TIPS
- Don't let stain puddle on the surface of the deck. Use a brush to work the stain into the wood.
- If you roll or spray, always back-brush.
- Stain doesn't stay mixed the same way paint does. You'll need to stir the stain frequently during application.
- To ensure proper stain penetration and even drying results, avoid applying stain in direct sunlight.
FOLLOW UP AND MAINTAINING YOUR FINISH
By function, you deck is a structure that requires a regular maintenance program. When its not being pelted by raindrops, its quite likely lying underneath a layer of snow or ice, soaking up the sun's harsh UV rays, or enduring heavy foot traffic.
Keep it looking great by cleaning it each spring with CLEAN Multi-Purpose Cleaner 318. Next, assess whether the wood needs to be refinished as well. Decks fare best in dry, pleasant weather. They require recoating more often in harsh climates, or when they are subject to heavy use.
As a general rule of thumb, plan to recoat a deck that has transparent or semi-transparent finish every 12-24 months, and a solid finish every 24-36 months, depending on the severity of the climate and type of use. A seasonal evaluation of the surface, with appropriate maintenance, will keep your deck looking its best.